Shanghai is full of paradoxes. They have preserved some lovely old areas, as well as some even lovelier and older areas, but much of the city is brand, spanking new. The contrasts are amazing.
It’s not just the architecture, it’s also the generations. These two women didn’t seem to know each other, but seeing them together was really evocative.
And the fashion. Ultra-hip,
and pose-worthy ancient.
Even the furniture surprised me. These hand-carved chairs are from the Qing Dynasty, which began in 1636.
But this furniture is from the Ming Dynasty, which began in 1368, although this stuff could just about pass for mid-century modern. Both are found in the wonderful Yu Garden, which is over 400 years old and also offers the visitor
a cacophony of koi,
a zig-zag bridge that only the emperor was allowed to cross, because it contains nine zigs and zags, the most auspicious number, and one reserved for the emperor’s use. Not even the empress was allowed to cross it.
There’s a lion made of iron that is over 700 years old,
a stone with 72 holes that’s been revered for more than 1000 years, because if you pour water in the top, or burn incense at the bottom, all of the holes will yield a beautiful result,
and a reflecting pool illustrating the principle that the reflection of the moon gate prevents you from knowing the depth of the water.
Outside the garden, in the old town, you can buy a bracelet of hand-hammered silver,
a flute made of clay,
or even a jade carving, if you’re extremely rich.
Outside of Shanghai proper, in the “water town” of Zhujiajiao, you can ride a hand-poled boat, which we did.
While in the French Concession, a part of Shanghai that was ceded to France from 1849-1943, you can celebrate Halloween at Wolfgang Puck’s,
rest in the shade of plane trees (platanes) that were imported from France,
get a taste of Bavaria at Paulaner, served to you by Chinese ladies in Bavarian costume,
and even marvel at the site where the very first congress of the Chinese communist party was held.
If you’re utterly exhausted you can stop at this tea house,
before visiting the state-run silk factory. Now let me say that I went there to learn about Chinese silk production, and possibly buy a scarf.
But after they showed me how the silk thread is spun, something I had already seen in France,
they showed me how the workers take a small mat of silk
lifting and stretching it until it becomes a single layer in a pure silk comforter. You guessed it, I couldn’t resist getting one to bring home.
That was just two amazing days in Shanghai. I feel like I barely scratched the surface, and I haven’t even mentioned the food, which certainly isn’t for lack of sampling it. And I haven’t told you about the marriage market. Or strange Chinese medicines I’ve tried. That’ll all be next.