Find Some Fish To Fry
I’m having a last fling with summer. It’s inching into autumn here, squash, chestnuts, pork, duck, and all of those richer delights will soon be on our table. But it’s still warm, sunny, picnic weather, and although the tomatoes are starting to look pretty sad, I’m not ready to give up on cool foods eaten barefoot outdoors in the shade of the awning.
Here’s something delicious to do with fish. Get some nice small ones; boneless is better. For this picnic it was filets of rouget, a delicious and very red little fish translated as red mullet, but I’ve also recently done this with fresh sardines. Toss the fish in flour, salt, and pepper, and fry them until they’re crisp and golden. Make a marinade of half wine, half vinegar, and reduce this by half. For the rouget I used a rosé, so as to make them even redder, but a white wine is probably more normal. For one pound of fish you’ll need about a cup of wine and a cup of vinegar. When the marinade is reduced, add the fresh herbs of your choice, pour the hot liquid over the crispy fish, and let it all cool. Try not to eat it all up right away, because this is best after a day or two of rest in the fridge.
For spicing up the rouget I used lots of fresh ginger slices, when I made this with sardines I used a big bunch of fresh mint. Use whatever sounds good and it will be. Then, assemble your picnic, and serve it with plenty of the same wine you used in the marinade. Bon appétit.